The Ultimate Guide on How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of Carpet and Flooring

“Ah! The cat peed on the floor!”

Has this happened to you? Don’t panic. Whether this is the first time this has ever happened, or it’s going on far too regularly – there is hope and there is help!

How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of Carpet

Wall to wall carpeting is a feature in many homes. It is warm, it is soft, it makes the rooms quiet…and cats like to pee on them. Because of their immense size, carpets can’t just be replaced when they become soiled, and need to be cleaned properly.

First, locate the smell:

First of all, you need to find where the smell is coming from. You might know this from observing your cat pee, or from finding the wet urine (either still warm, or gone cold). You may find the urine after it has dried, which can be either sticky or can be completely dried (depending on how long the urine has been there). Older urine might have bleached the area of carpet a lighter color than it used to be, and bleaching cannot be reversed.

If you want to safely neutralize cat urine smell, we recommend:

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the carpet, try using a black-light. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the carpet the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. They will either look like a round or oval shape (puddle) or they might look like a spray or splatter pattern (usually on a vertical surface such as a wall). Use some baking soda to mark the edges of the urine stain, so that you can find it later when the lights are on. Baking soda will not hurt your carpet and can be vacuumed up later.

Another way to search for the source of cat urine on the carpet is by literally sniffing it out. This is quick and requires no special tools except for your nose. Depending on your physical flexibility and sensitivity of smell, this might be difficult for you to do. You get on your hands and knees and put your nose right down to the carpet and sniff.

Next, clean it up:

Once you locate the source of the smell (or more than one source… if there is one urine spot there might be more than one; be sure to check) then you should try to remove as much of it as possible. If the urine is still wet, immediately blot up as much as you can with many paper towels, or cleaning rags. Press down hard, to allow as much urine as possible to soak into the towels. Use fresh towels, to soak up more. The more urine you get out of the carpet, the less you will have to clean in the next step.

Next, move any furniture that may be damaged from exposure to moisture, in case some of the liquid cleaner gets too close. Use an enzyme cleaner that is specially designed to deal with cat urine. Use lots, and use as directed. Do not dilute the product with water as it will be less effective. Be prepared to use more than you think you will need. Don’t just spray it on the surface of the carpet – you really need to saturate the area. The urine will have spread throughout the carpet fibers, and probably into the under padding, and if it has been there a while, maybe even into the sub-floor. A word of caution: if the urine has penetrated this deep, it will be difficult to clean without removing the under padding and possibly even the sub-floor. Here are some tips if you will need to replace the padding or the sub-floor

Use an enzyme cleaner:

After treating with an enzyme cleaner, you may wish to wash the carpet. When cleaning, do not use a steam cleaner. The extreme high heat of the steam can ‘set’ any stain or urine that might have been left behind. You can warm or hot water and a carpet cleaner, or a wet/dry shop vac to remove excess water/cleaner. It is a very good idea to use an enzyme cleaner twice for the same spot, to make sure you got all the urine. As the uric acid crystals (the smelly part of what is left behind in dried cat pee) get wet with the cleaner, the carpet area may smell strongly of cat pee. Do not be alarmed as this is normal and part of the cleaning process.

Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the carpet fibers for at least an hour, if not longer. While the area is drying, you may need to keep your pets away. Use a laundry basket placed upside down on the area that you are cleaning and allowing to dry.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire area of carpet that has been peed on, and the under padding, and through to the sub-floor, you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the carpet. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the carpet.

How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of an Area Rug or Mat

Yes, your first inclination might be to just get rid of the soiled floor covering. Especially if it is a very old or worn mat or rug. A typical bathroom mat is inexpensive and easy to replace. But an area rug may not be something you are willing to part with just because it has been peed on. Please note: if you have a very old or very valuable rug, you might want to consult an insured cleaning service instead of attempting to clean the rug yourself.

First, locate the smell:

First of all, you need to find where the cat pee smell is coming from. You might know this from observing your cat pee, or from finding the wet urine (either still warm, or gone cold). You may find the urine after it has dried, which can be either sticky or can be completely dried (depending on how long the urine has been there). Older urine might have bleached the area of rug or mat a lighter color than it used to be, and bleaching cannot be reversed.

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the carpet, try using a black-light. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the rug the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. On a rug or a mat, the pee spot will look like a round or oval shape (puddle). Use some baking soda to mark the edges of the urine stain, so that you can find it later when the lights are on. Baking soda will not hurt your mat and can be vacuumed up later.

Another way to search for the source of cat urine on the rug is by literally sniffing it out. This is quick and requires no special tools except for your nose. Depending on your physical flexibility and sensitivity of smell, this might be difficult for you to do. You get on your hands and knees to the rug (or pick up the mat) and put your nose right down to the fabric and sniff.

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Next, clean it up:

If you are able to pick up and move the mat or rug to a large laundry tub or even your bathtub, do it. This will allow you to soak the mat for a longer time, and makes it easier to rinse out the cleaner, and allow the mat to drip dry for a while. Feel free to saturate the mat completely in water. You do not even need to use any detergent at this point, you just want to remove as much of the water soluble components of the urine as possible.

Use an enzyme cleaner:

After treating with an enzyme cleaner, you may wish to wash the mat. You can use warm or hot water and a carpet cleaner, or a wet/dry shop vac to remove excess water/cleaner. It is a very good idea to use an enzyme cleaner twice for the same spot, to make sure you got all the urine. As the uric acid crystals (the smelly part of what is left behind in dried cat pee) get wet with the cleaner, the area may smell strongly of cat pee. Do not be alarmed as this is a normal part of the cleaning process.

Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the rug fibers for at least an hour, if not longer. Be certain that the rug or mat is completely dry before putting it back on the floor, otherwise you may end up with a mildew problem. Some mats (such as bathroom mats) can be placed in a laundry clothes dryer without damaging them. This is not generally recommended for area rugs, but it depends on the size and type of fabric the rug is made of. Rugs and mats can also be dried outside on a warm and sunny day, which is great for deodorizing, but be aware that sunlight can bleach or fade certain dyes that might be used in your rug.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire rug that has been peed on you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the rug. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the area rugs and mats.

The Ultimate Guide How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of a Concrete Floor

Some people think that an unfinished concrete floor is impenetrable. Like a sidewalk…if something spills on it, just wash it off and it’s gone. But concrete floors (typically found in an unfinished basement, under carpeting in a basement, or in an enclosed porch area) are not as easy to deep clean as you might think.

First, locate the smell:

First of all, you need to find where the cat urine smell is coming from. You might know this from observing your cat pee, or from finding the wet urine (either still warm, or gone cold). If the urine is completely dried and absorbed into the concrete, you may not be able to see it. Sometimes dried urine leaves a faint ring of white deposit around the edges of the urine spot.

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the concrete, you may try using a black-light. However, be aware that the urine areas may not glow as much as they would if the pee was on a carpet. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the concrete floor the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. They will either look like a round or oval shape (puddle) or they might look like a spray or splatter pattern (usually on a vertical surface such as a wall). Mark the soiled area by making a chalk outline around the stain, so that you can find it later when the lights are on.

One word of caution concerning cleaning concrete flooring – while it is best to spend extra time and effort on the area that the cat has peed on, you should actually treat the entire floor area. This not only ensures that you will have gotten any areas that you may have missed, but it will also prevent the concrete from drying and looking splotchy or spotty, as can happen when you clean only one area.

Next, clean it up:

Part 1: Once you locate the source of the smell (or more than one sources! if there is one urine spot the might be more than one; be sure to check) then you should try to remove as much of it as possible. If the urine is still wet, immediately blot up as much as you can with many paper towels or old rags. Press down hard, to allow as much urine as possible to soak into the towels. Use fresh towels, to soak up more. The more urine you get off of the concrete, the less you will have to clean in the next step. Move any furniture that may be damaged from exposure to moisture, in case some water gets too close as there will be a lot of water used in the cleaning process.

Next, clean the entire floor with one of two types of mixtures. You can go the quick and easy and inexpensive route (using a mixture of 2 parts vinegar to 1 part water), or you can try something a little more aggressive such as TSP. TSP is tri-sodium phosphate and it is a heavy-duty cleaner that you can purchase at hardware stores. You will need to wear rubber gloves and protective eye goggles, and make sure you have adequate ventilation, and that your pets and other people are out of the room while you work.

Whether you use the vinegar and water solution or the TSP solution, work in small areas at a time (2 or 3 feet square) and be sure that the area you are working on remains wet for at least 10 minutes. If it dries out too quickly, it will not penetrate deeply into the concrete. Keep the area wet, and use a scrubbing brush to lightly scrub the area. As the uric acid crystals (the smelly part of what is left behind in dried cat pee) get wet with the cleaner, they will smell strongly of cat pee. Do not be alarmed as this is normal. Once you have finished pre-washing the floor and let the solution sit for at least 10 minutes, it is time to rinse.

Part 2: Pour hot water over the areas you have treated. Take a wet/dry vacuum and suck up the soiled water. If you do not have a wet/dry vacuum, you can use towels and rags, but you will need a lot of them for this job. When you have sucked up all the water, rinse the peed-on area again with hot water, then suck it up again. Then a third time: rinse and suck it up. Allow the floor to dry naturally overnight. Do not use fans to speed the drying time. You want this process to be slow and allow as much of the urine components to be loosened up as possible for the next step.

While you are waiting for the floor to dry, take the time to clean out your wet/dry vacuum and the scrub-brush that you used with a mixture of TSP and water, or vinegar and water. Clean out all parts of the vacuum (including the collection chamber, the hose and even the wheels…anything that the wet urine-water might have touched), then rinse completely with water, then repeat. You want your vacuum to be very clean, and not smell like cat pee.

Use an enzyme cleaner:

When the concrete floor is completely dry, use an enzyme cleaner that is specially designed to deal with cat urine. Use lots, and use as directed. Do not dilute the product with water as it will be less effective. Be prepared to use more than you think you will need. Don’t just spray it on the surface of the floor – you really need to saturate the area. Concrete may seem hard as a rock, but it is actually porous, and absorbs liquids. With pee, you may not see the liquid part but the smelly parts are locked deep down inside the structure of the concrete and when conditions become moist (such as dampness or humidity…common for basements) you will smell the urine again.

After treating with an enzyme cleaner, you may wish to wash the concrete floor. You can warm or hot water and a wet/dry shop vac to remove excess water/cleaner. It is a very good idea to use an enzyme cleaner twice for the same spot, to make sure you got all the urine.

Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the concrete for at least an hour, if not longer. Use a clean scrub brush to scrub the enzyme cleaner into the concrete really well (especially in the soiled areas). If the area has been peed on several times, you may notice that the concrete begins to release little bubbles as you work on it. You may wish to re-treat these areas, as the urine components have penetrated into the concrete deeply in these spots. Allow the concrete floor to dry slowly. Place a plastic tarp over the area to slow down the drying time. This allows the enzyme cleaner to do its work longer and better. While the area is drying, you may need to keep your pets away. Shut the door to the room, or use a laundry basket placed upside down on the area that you are cleaning and allowing to dry.

When the floor is completely dry, and if it does not smell like urine anymore, then you may want to consider sealing the floor with a specially designed sealant. This will seal the pores of the concrete, and will make any future clean up easier, as the urine will not be able to soak down into the concrete.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire area of concrete that has been peed on, you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the concrete floor. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the concrete floor.

If you want to safely neutralize cat urine smell, we recommend:

The Ultimate Guide How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of Ceramic Tile

Some people think that ceramic tile is waterproof and impenetrable. If something spills on it, just wash it off and it’s gone. But ceramic tiles (especially the grout lines between the tiles) need to be treated in a specific way.

First, locate the smell:

First of all, you need to find where the cat pee smell is coming from. You might know this from observing your cat pee, or from finding the wet urine (either still warm, or gone cold). If the urine is completely dried you may feel a sticky spot on the tile and the urine will probably have absorbed into the grout lines, which may look yellow.

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the ceramic tile, you may try using a black-light. However, be aware that the urine areas will not glow as much as they would if the pee was on a carpet, or depending on the type of tiles you have, the entire tile area may glow quite a bit, making it difficult to see the urine spots. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the tile floor the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. They will either look like a round or oval shape (puddle) or they might look like a spray or splatter pattern (usually on a vertical surface such as a wall). Mark the soiled area by making an outline using a small amount of baking soda, so that you can find it later when the lights are on.

Another way to search for the source of cat urine on the tile is by literally sniffing it out. This is quick and requires no special tools except for your nose. Depending on your physical flexibility and sensitivity of smell, this might be difficult for you to do. You get on your hands and knees and put your nose right down to the ceramic tile flooring and sniff.

Next, clean it up:

Once you locate the source of the smell (or more than one sources! if there is one urine spot the might be more than one; be sure to check) then you should try to remove as much of it as possible. Move any furniture that may be damaged from exposure to moisture, in case some water or cleaner gets too close.

For fresh (wet) pee: If the urine is fresh and still wet, immediately blot up as much as you can with many paper towels or old cleaning rags. Use fresh towels to soak up more. The more urine you get off of the floor, the less you will have to clean in the next step. Use an enzyme cleaner that is specially designed to deal with cat urine. Use lots, and use as directed. Do not dilute the product with water as it will be less effective. Be prepared to use more than you think you will need. Don’t just spray it on the surface of the floor – you really need to saturate the area. Ceramic tile is sealed but the grout between the tiles is not. It is porous, and absorbs liquids. With pee, you may not see the liquid part but the smelly parts are locked deep down inside the structure of the grout and when conditions become moist (such as dampness or humidity…common for bathrooms and basements) you will smell the urine again.

For older (dried) pee: If the urine on the ceramic tile floor is old and dried, you may have to reapply the enzyme cleaner and repeat the cleaning steps several times in order to be certain that all the uric acid (the smelly part in the pee) has been removed. It is possible that old urine stains will permanently discolor the grout. With warm water, wash away as much of the dried urine as possible. Then apply the cat urine enzyme cleaner, as directed. Use a lot. At least as much as the urine stain, use that amount of enzyme cleaner (if not more). Do not dilute the product with water as it will be less effective. Be prepared to use more than you think you will need. Don’t just spray it on the surface of the floor – you really need to saturate the area. Your ceramic tile flooring may seem waterproof, but parts of it are actually porous, and absorbs liquids. With pee, you may not see the liquid part but the smelly parts are locked deep down inside the structure of the grout and when conditions become moist (such as dampness or humidity…common for basements) you will smell the urine again.

Use an enzyme cleaner:

Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the ceramic tile and grout for at least an hour, if not longer. Use an old discarded toothbrush or other small brush to scrub the enzyme cleaner into the grout really well (especially in the soiled areas).

Allow the tile floor to dry slowly. Place a large piece of plastic wrap or even a plastic tarp over the area to slow down the drying time. This allows the enzyme cleaner to do its work longer and better. Allow the area to remain covered overnight (or longer) reapplying the enzyme cleaner as it dries.

While the area is drying, you may need to keep your pets away. Shut the door to the room, or use a laundry basket placed upside down on the area that you are cleaning and allowing to dry. When the area is dry, wash the floor as usual, to remove any residue from the cleaner, as the residue may attract dirt.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire area of concrete that has been peed on, you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the floor. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the ceramic tile floor.

The Ultimate Guide How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl flooring (sometimes called linoleum, although they are not exactly the same thing) is a common flooring option for rooms that occasionally get wet floors, such as kitchens, bathrooms, entrance ways and laundry rooms. Because of the waterproof nature of the material, vinyl flooring is often quite resistant to the damage of cat urine, but not entirely…

First, locate the smell:

First of all, you need to find where the smelly cat pee smell is coming from. You might know this from observing your cat pee, or from finding the wet urine (either still warm, or gone cold). If the urine is completely dried you may feel a sticky spot on the vinyl flooring.

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the vinyl flooring, you may try using a black-light. However, be aware that the urine areas will not glow as much as they would if the pee was on a carpet, or depending on the color of vinyl flooring you have, the entire area may glow quite a bit, making it difficult to see the urine spots. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the vinyl floor the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. They will either look like a round or oval shape (puddle) or they might look like a spray or splatter pattern (usually on a vertical surface such as a wall). Mark the soiled area by making an outline using a small amount of baking soda, so that you can find it later when the lights are on.

Another way to search for the source of cat urine on the vinyl flooring is by literally sniffing it out. This is quick and requires no special tools except for your nose. Depending on your physical flexibility and sensitivity of smell, this might be difficult for you to do. You get on your hands and knees and put your nose right down to the floor and sniff.

Next, clean it up:

Once you locate the source of the smell–or more than one sources! If there is one urine spot there might be more than one; be sure to check–then you should try to remove as much of it as possible. Move any furniture that may be damaged from exposure to moisture, in case some water or cleaner gets too close.

If the urine is fresh (still wet) immediately blot up as much as you can with many paper towels or old cleaning rags. Use fresh towels to soak up more. The more urine you get off of the floor, the less you will have to clean in the next step. If the urine is dried, use warm or hot water and many rags or paper towels to wash down the area to remove as much of the yellow sticky pee residue as possible.

Use an enzyme cleaner:

Use an enzyme cleaner that is specially designed to deal with cat urine. Use lots, and use as directed. Do not dilute the product with water as it will be less effective. Be prepared to use more than you think you will need. Don’t just spray it on the surface of the floor – you really need to saturate the area. Vinyl flooring that is installed all in one large piece, and not scratched or gouged, will be easily cleaned most of the time. If the flooring was installed as individual tiles (glued to the floor and fitted together) or if there are many scratches in the finish, there are more small grooves for the cat pee to get into, that must be cleaned.

Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the ceramic tile and grout for at least an hour, if not longer. Use a clean but soft bristled brush to scrub the enzyme cleaner onto the floor well. While the area is drying, you may need to keep your pets away. Shut the door to the room, or use a laundry basket placed upside down on the area that you are cleaning and allowing to dry. When the area is dry, wash the floor as usual, to remove any residue from the cleaner, as the residue may attract dirt.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire area of vinyl flooring that has been peed on, you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the floor. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the vinyl floor.

The Ultimate Guide How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of Laminate Flooring

Laminate (plank) floors are a popular and affordable alternative to hardwood. While laminate flooring planks can be semi-waterproof if you find cat pee and clean it right away, if it is left to sit too long, you might end up with permanent damage to the finish.

First, locate the smell:

Older urine might have bleached the area a lighter color than it used to be, and bleaching cannot be reversed. If urine (or any moisture) has been left on laminate flooring planks for too long, you might observe a ‘bubbling’ or raised areas on the planks. This also is permanent and cannot be reversed, although the planks can be replaced.

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the laminate floor, try using a black-light. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the floor the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. They will either look like a round or oval shape (puddle) or they might look like a spray or splatter pattern (usually on a vertical surface such as a wall). Use some baking soda to mark the edges of the urine stain, so that you can find it later when the lights are on. Baking soda will not hurt your floor and can be vacuumed up later.

Another way to search for the source of cat urine on the laminate flooring is by literally sniffing it out. This is quick and requires no special tools except for your nose. Depending on your physical flexibility and sensitivity of smell, this might be difficult for you to do. You get on your hands and knees and put your nose right down to the floor and sniff. Note that some cat spray actually has no odor.

Next, clean it up:

Once you locate the source of the smell (or more than one sources… if there is one urine spot the might be more than one; be sure to check) then you should try to remove as much of it as possible. If the urine is still wet, immediately blot up as much as you can with many paper towels or old cleaning rags. Press down hard, to allow as much urine as possible to soak into the towels. Use fresh towels, to soak up more. The more urine you get off of the floor, the less you will have to clean in the next step.

Use an enzyme cleaner:

Next, use an enzyme cleaner that is specially designed to deal with cat urine. Use lots, and use as directed. Do not dilute the product with water as it will be less effective. Be prepared to use more than you think you will need. Don’t just spray it on the surface of the laminate floor – you really need to saturate the area. The urine will have spread throughout the laminate paneling, maybe even into the sub-floor. A word of caution: if the urine has penetrated this deep, it will be difficult to clean without replacing the affected panels or possibly replacing some of the sub-floor.

Move any furniture that may be damaged from exposure to moisture, in case some of the liquid cleaner gets too close. Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the laminate floor panels for at least an hour, if not longer. Use a clean but soft bristled brush to scrub the enzyme cleaner onto the floor well. While the area is drying, you may need to keep your pets away. Shut the door to the room, or use a laundry basket placed upside down on the area that you are cleaning and allowing to dry. When the area is dry, wash the floor as usual, to remove any residue from the cleaner, as the residue may attract dirt. You can wash a laminate floor with 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water and a few drops of liquid soap. Be sure to wipe up all excess water that is left after cleaning.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire area of laminate floor that has been peed on, you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the floor. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the laminate floor.

The Ultimate Guide How to Get Cat Pee Smell Out of Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood floors are a beautiful and classic flooring option. However because of the porous nature of natural wood and the chance that urine may have seeped down between the boards and into the sub-floor, cleaning cat pee on hardwood floors can be tricky.

First, locate the smell:

First of all, you need to find where the cat pee smell is coming from. You might know this from observing your cat pee, or from finding the wet urine (either still warm, or gone cold). You may find the urine after it has dried, which can be either sticky or can be completely dried (depending on how long the urine has been there). Older urine might have bleached the area a lighter color than it used to be, and bleaching cannot be reversed.

If you are having difficulty finding the urine on the hardwood floor, try using a black-light. Turn out all the lights in the room, turn on the black light (the closer the light is to the floor the better this will work) and look for cat urine stains, which will glow yellow/green. They will either look like a round or oval shape (puddle) or they might look like a spray or splatter pattern (usually on a vertical surface such as a wall). Use some baking soda to mark the edges of the urine stain, so that you can find it later when the lights are on. Baking soda will not hurt your floor and can be vacuumed up later.

Next, clean it up:

Once you locate the source of the smell (or more than one sources… if there is one urine spot the might be more than one; be sure to check) then you should try to remove as much of it as possible. If the urine is still wet, immediately blot up as much as you can with many paper towels or old rags. Press down hard, to allow as much urine as possible to soak into the towels. Use fresh towels, to soak up more. The more urine you get off of the floor, the less you will have to clean in the next step.

Use an enzyme cleaner:

A word of caution: if the urine has penetrated this deep, it will be difficult to clean without refinishing the hardwood or possibly replacing some of the sub-floor.

Move any furniture that may be damaged from exposure to moisture, in case some of the liquid cleaner gets too close. Enzyme cleaners often need time in order to work. You should leave them to soak into the hardwood flooring for at least an hour, if not longer. Use a clean but soft bristled brush to scrub the enzyme cleaner onto the floor well. While the area is drying, you may need to keep your pets away. Shut the door to the room, or use a laundry basket placed upside down on the area that you are cleaning and allowing to dry. When the area is dry, wash the floor as usual, to remove any residue from the cleaner, as the residue may attract dirt. You can wash a hardwood floor using a commercial product (such as Murphy’s oil soap) or by making a floor cleaner that is 1 part vinegar to 10 parts warm water with a few drops of liquid Castile soap. Be sure to wipe up all excess water that is left after cleaning.

Once it is clean, figure out “why”:

Once you have completely cleaned the entire area of wood floor that has been peed on, you will want to keep it clean. You must try to figure out WHY your cat is peeing on the floor. Was it an accident/one-time thing? (for instance: a kitten who is litter training, a cat who is new to the household and didn’t know where the litter box was, or was the cat accidentally trapped in a room without a litter box?) If not, then there are bigger behavioral issues in play, and your cat is most likely suffering from a form of feline stress. You must determine what is causing your cat to be upset, so you can help them and they will stop peeing on the hardwood floor.

Thank you for reading and we wish you the best of luck with your cleaning!